Right after visiting the Vootrekker Monument, we went to downtown Pretoria. We passed by (but did not stop in to visit) the Kruger House. Then, we went to Church Square, which used to be the center of this once proud Afrikaner town, with government buildings and a statue of Paul Kruger right in the middle of the square.
But it did not look or feel quite how I had always imagined it when seeing pictures of this place back during my childhood.
One of Pretoria's gems
My guide said that Pretoria used to be the Afrikaner city. It was their cultural and historical hub, if you will.
However, things have changed. Downtown Pretoria has few Afrikaners left. The official name of the city has changed.
But the monuments remain.
In parts of the city, you can see what how it used to be.
Yet, you are simultaneously reminded, in almost every way, that this is not how things are any longer here.
Perhaps the most obvious place where this reality is illustrated is Church Square. It has some handsome buildings surrounding it, and used to be the very center of Afrikanerdom, if you will. These were the government buildings when this city was the capital of Transvaal (which translates to "beyond the vaal"), one of the two Boer Republics. The whole city might have been a source of Afrikaner pride, but this square is arguably the most historical center for Afrikaners in the entire country.




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