Photo courtesy of U.S. Embassy New Delhi's Flickr page - President John F. Kennedy: https://www.flickr.com/photos/usembassynewdelhi/5386861182/in/photolist-9d259W-tmwAo-cWtMa-7a4Byr-f2QNxR-6T4jUP-9D8P7N-fNDPna-owAEr7-cMia3q-byZ3sQ-5nUjps-3BNPpE-dejPUc-dejPeY-6BmWcm-6599wx-xvZgh6-3BXC4T-7a7U2J-fsx31D-fswNCz-dejP8o-nKsnKa-9d2AYA-nsYcM8-bLpmLn-e6FRc4-5X3TCf-hTFK4N-5FTTUx-Abf3GV-a1ExFz-621Udq-7UJoDn-6zdUWD-dS84z5-6zhYzo-mszAN8-msyXcP-msyWZe-mszAtk-msyWLZ-msATFA-msyWzg-mszxVV-dEmU38-fstNe2-bLoGDz-8VE5tv
Creative Commons License: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/2.0/
So,
yes, my son and I visited Dealey Plaza earlier this year, during our
larger trip out west. The visit to the Dallas-Fort Worth area was
originally supposed to be for roughly three or four hours, but the
airline changed our itinerary, and we kind of had to accept. So, we
wound up getting around 24 hours (just shy of it, actually) in that
particular region, instead. Not that I was complaining, as it is always
interesting to see something new, something different, and of interest.
Dallas was always of a strange, unique interest to me. Texas has long seemed strange to me, almost like a foreign country of sorts. And chief among the places that I wanted to visit there was Dallas, Texas. More specifically, Dealey Plaza, which held a kind of morbid fascination for me. You see, I feel that within the span of just seconds in 1963, the country, and perhaps the world, was changed forever, and not for the better.
Of course, it is no secret that I am speaking of the assassination of John F. Kennedy on November 22, 1963. It was supposed to be one of those moments in time when everyone remembered exactly what they were doing when they found out. This singular event cast a shadow of sorts over the world as I knew it growing up, even though I popped into the world more than a decade after this event. It seemed to me that the United States was an unbelievably happy and prosperous place, that the country enjoyed a standard of living and quality of life that was second to none, and which was the envy of the entire world. To boot, the collective world memory of the United States having helped to liberate Europe and Asia from the chains of tyranny and forceful occupation was still relatively fresh, and so the United States was legitimately looked up to the world over. No country had ever enjoyed such high prestige, nor was any nation before or since in quite a privileged and powerful place.
Yes, that was the world, and the United State specifically, as it then existed. the perfect embodiment of that seeming happiness and success was the "Camelot" days of President John Fitzgerald Kennedy. Here was a young and dashing leader with incredible wit, intelligence, and a seeming vision for the country that truly inspired. He spoke eloquently (albeit probably a little vaguely) about great things, and seemed to give the country a sense of direction and purpose. Elected in 1960, he led for approximately 1,000 days, before his life was cut short, as he was gunned down in Dallas, in Dealey Plaza, on this day in 1963.
Truly, the world, and especially the United States, has never been the same since.
Prior to this singular event, Americans seemed to have a faith in themselves, in their country, and in their elected officials which has since very clearly has gone away. This belief seems almost naive by today's standards, although I cannot help but feel that we also lost something in the process, and that we have turned irrevocably cynical towards everything. Although I was not there on that particular day, it seems to me that the beginning of all of this cynicism came on that fateful day, and the events that followed. Kennedy, the leader who made us all proud, and was the face of the country for his all-too brief tenure in the Oval Office, seemed to represent the very best that the country had to offer. His assassination was like a national Pandora's Box. From this event, not only did Americans grieve their stricken leader, but they came to disbelieve the Warren Commission, the official government report of what exactly happened on that day. Conspiracy theories came to dominate perceptions of that event, with some raising some serious questions, and others showing a less savory, borderline lunatic fringe element to the country. The divisions of the country, which certainly had existed while Kennedy was in office, grew ever more apparent, and the Vietnam War cast yet more doubts about what government told us. Add to that Watergate some years later, and you had a country growing ever more cynical, almost by the minute. We have reached a point where almost no major event can happen without some people claiming that it is false, that it is not real news, but somehow orchestrated by higher powers that be, some evil force in control of everything. After all, the conspiracy theories may have begun with the events at Dealey Plaza on November 22, 1963, but they certainly did not end there. Many people believe that the government was behind the September 11th attacks, and that the moon landing was a fake.
And so, despite the tragedy of this event, it always held a sort of somber reminder of what we lost on that day. Not just a president, a leader, but also a way of life. A way of looking at the world, with a boldness and confidence that we just have never been able to get back since, try as we may. Now, we have so-called leaders who speak in tones that sometimes echo Kennedy and his style, and his words, but which pale by comparison, because those words are met by the brick wall of our collective cynicism.
Coming to Dealey Plaza was not unlike visiting the site in a cemetery where a loved one is buried. There is this sense of a major, major loss - one that the whole country has not entirely been able to fully get over since. The fact that I, and millions of people who, like me, were born well after these events, nonetheless also feel like they lost something, some kind of lightning in a bottle that can never quite be recaptured again.
The images, and especially the infamous Zapruder video of the assassination itself, have come to represent a turning point in the country's history. Like with September 11th, things can never be quite put whole again, and our lives have certainly changed following both of those events. The unbelievable violence of the actual assassination, captured by Abraham Zapruder's camera on that fateful day, still has the power to shock, even though we have all seen the video time and time again, and know the outcome. Seeing that leader - a real President for all Americans - literally get his head blown off in front of the cameras is still shocking and emotional. And it all seems to come back to life (pardon the expression) especially here in Dealey Plaza, where in some way, it remains eerily similar to the way that it looked in 1963.
My son is still too young to fully appreciate the gravitas of the place, although I was not. We arrived in the late afternoon/early summer evening, and it felt unusually quiet. Fittingly, as close to being a cemetery site as you are apt to get in a large, modern city.
Below are some of the words I already shared of these experiences in earlier blog entries, but which I thought seemed appropriate to post again on this most solemn of anniversaries - the anniversary of not just the untimely death of a president, but of an event that forever changed a country, and indeed the world, and not necessarily for the better.
We arrived in Dallas just a little bit later than expected, because our flight was delayed by one hour.
Yet,
it was still daylight, and we did not arrive fully one hour after
expected, but maybe half an hour, or so. And it was far and away the
smoothest landing that I ever remember experiencing, very smooth and
quick, and right to the terminal.
We
were out of the airplane easily within ten minutes, and possibly five
minutes, after we had been in the air, just after landing. Again, it was
as smooth as I can ever remember a landing like that being.
Just like that, we were in Dallas, in the Lone Star State.
Frankly,
the main thing that I personally associate with the city of Dallas is
the assassination, and despite the city's tremendous efforts to change
it's image since then, which includes the flashy show matching the name
of the city, as well as the flashiest American football team, if not
sports team in general, the reality is that this singular event put
Dallas at the front and center of something that came to change the
country in some fundamental way. Some people came to associate the city
of Dallas afterwards as a city filled with hate (remember, that Texas
was a southern, Dixiecrat state with official Jim Crow segregation at
the time). Ever since then, the city has tried to disassociate itself
with that event, with only partial success. For some people, far more
significant than the self-described "America's Team" or some popular
television show, the Kennedy Assassination really showed the city as
symbolic of a certain mentality, or perhaps a lingering resentment, that
some people (including Stephen King in his novel, 11/22/63) have never
entirely forgiven it for. After all, Texas has always been known for
having this swashbuckling, arrogant, entitled mentality that some find
attractive, and others find repugnant. But whatever the truth may be
behind the killing of Kennedy, it somehow feels fitting that such a
tragic event should have happened in this state, and perhaps
particularly in this city.
I
was a bit surprised when I first learned that we were not going to get
just a few hours in Dallas, but a whole day. It was not the original
plan, but I made the most of it, deciding to use this as an opportunity
to explore the city a little bit. And the one thing that immediately
comes to mind when you think of Dallas (at least for many people,
including myself) is the Kennedy Assassination. When I first learned
that it would be Love Field where we would be landing, there was
something that sounded familiar about it, but I could not place my
finger on it. Then it came to me, all of a sudden, that this was the
airport that predated the much bigger, more modern Dallas-Fort Worth
Airport. This was the airport that Kennedy landed at on November 22,
1963, and from which he greeted the crowd and then entered the motorcade
that would, unfortunately, carry him to his death just minutes later.
And it was to Love Field that his body was returned thereafter, and it
was at this airport that Vice-President Lyndon B. Johnson took the oath
of office shortly after Kennedy's death became official. So, given the
historical significance of this particular airport, I was pleased to be
visiting it in particular. What is more, it proved to be a very pleasant
experience!
The
luggage was easy to find, and it was easy to see the convenience of
such a relatively small airport as Dallas Love Field. We got the luggage
- no issues this time - and headed straight for the car rental place,
which we had passed along the way, and which is also easily in view from
the baggage.
Everything
was going so swimmingly, and this after the previous twelve to twenty
hours had been filled with so many complications and nuisances, that I
had began to expect them to just keep on coming.
However, things were apparently looking better for us. Things were improving.
The
car rental went smoothly, as well. He tried to sell me coverage, but I
told him that my insurance was covering. Then, he tried to sell me on an
upgrade, telling me that there was a car that was slightly bigger than
the compact or economy that I had originally ordered. I made it clear
that I was not interested, and did not want any extra expenses. No
interest in a bigger car, just the same economy car that I had ordered a
couple of weeks before, please.
That ended up being no problem.
We
exited, and the shuttle was right there. No long waits, no massive
amounts of people, like I have seen at some other airports. Again,
everything was going more smoothly than I felt I had a right to expect.
This was good, so far!
We
got the car, which had a few dings and such, and I showed that to the
guy as we were leaving. He marked that, and then we were off!
Here
we were, in Dallas, Texas! I turned left and then took a right onto
Mockingbird Drive, and within minutes, rather ironically, I was stunned
to see a "Kennedy for President" sign on a billboard. Since I was
preoccupied with driving, I could not see what it was all about, but
promised to leave myself a few minutes the next day to take a picture
and find out.
It
was just the first of numerous reminders of the events on one fateful
day in November of 1963 that have continued to live on ever since. That
event is like an open wound, and it feels like there is simply a lack of
closure regarding this singular event. A lot of people feel that the
United States lost not only a president, but lost something else,
perhaps even something more - a certain level of innocence or even
greatness on that day. And yet here in Dallas, there seems to be a
strange mixture of reactions towards this event, which will forever be
linked to Dallas (and to a lesser extent, Fort Worth), one way or the
other. The assassination site itself is a mixture of an outdoor museum
and Kennedy Memorial, while there are other makeshift memorials at
Parkland Hospital (where Kennedy was taken and pronounced dead on that
day) and in Fort Worth, where he spent his final night in Room 850, at
what was then Hotel Texas, and is now the Hilton Fort Worth.
Here's
the picture of the "Kennedy for President" billboard, which I believe
was for either a television show, or a museum exhibit - cannot remember
which.
It
was ironic because the first place that we headed towards was Dealey
Plaza (which was by choice, of course). That was the main site that I
wanted to definitely see while we were in Dallas. True, it was too late
to visit the Sixth Floor Museum, and frankly, I did not know how we were
going to fit everything that we wanted to the next day in Fort Worth,
and still get to visit the Sixth Floor Museum, although I certainly
wanted to.
Still,
just seeing the actual site where Kennedy was assassinated was a
surreal experience. Predictably, it was not exactly like I expected.
Somehow, it seemed a lot smaller in real life than what the pictures and
footage had made it seem.
Yet,
everything was there. The former Texas School Book Depository, and the
sixth floor. I could even see the boxes from the sniper's nest that
Oswald had built for himself for the shooting (unless you truly believe
that Oswald had nothing to do with it, which is really hard for any
rational person to believe). There was the grassy knoll, and the
overpass that Kennedy's motorcade had passed by on the way to nearby
Parkland Hospital (Yes, I went there, too)/.There were all of the same
structures that stood on that day, lending this plaza the feel that time
had stood still to some degree since that day, well over half a century
ago. There were the two X's that marked the spot of where Kennedy had
actually been shot. It was a little more difficult to see the first X at
first, but that was probably because it was so much closer to the
building than I had expected it to be. I had familiarized myself
somewhat with some of the countless conspiracy theories involved with
the assassination. So, that gave me the mistaken impression that the
first X marking the spot where Kennedy had first been shot (the one
where he reaches for his throat in the Zapruder film) was much farther
away from the building than it actually proved to be. In fact, it was
actually quite close. Again, in large part, perhaps this is just because
the whole plaza was quite a bit smaller than I had somehow expected it
to be.
The
thing is, we all have seen that footage hundreds, if not thousands, of
times, over the course of years. Saw it in countless documentaries, saw
it in movies, or perhaps television shows. On the internet, perhaps on
Youtube, and almost assuredly accompanied by some kind of "proof" for
this or that conspiracy theory. So, when you see that kind of thing over
and over again, you kind of have certain expectations, and perhaps it
grows in your imagination. Then, when you finally actually do see it, it
just somehow seems, or feels, much different than you expected it to.
We
walked around. I explained to my young son the significance of this
place, how Kennedy had been literally gunned down here. How he had
arrived in Dallas, and at the time, represented hope and youth and
idealism, and how all of that had ended so abruptly, so unexpectedly, on
that November afternoon. Of course, I spoke about it in a way that
might have suggested I had actually been there, although I would not yet
be born for well over a decade afterwards.
Still,
the significance of this place was not lost on me, and I hoped that he
would get a sense of just how big that day was, how much the events in
Dallas on that fateful day had shaped America. Without trying to be
overly pessimistic, I told him that it seemed that this singular event
had shaped America ever since, and that somehow, this had marked a kind
of turn for the worst. The country had still largely been enjoying it's
golden age to that point and, if anything, Kennedy seemed to epitomize
that more than any single other American at the time. He was what
everyone wanted to be - young, seemingly filled with vitality,
good-looking, rich, and hugely successful. He had wit and charm, and his
speeches inspired the entire country. That famous Kennedy style that
was so evident in his brothers Bobby and Ted were, at that time,
represented in no less than the biggest office in the land, if not the
world.
And
it all came to an end here, in this city, in Dealey Plaza. He seemed to
understand, although you can never really tell when kids are just
nodding their head to agree, with their thoughts elsewhere, or if he
really was grasping this.
Not
surprisingly, there were several guys there specifically to talk to
tourists, and to try and push not only their conspiracy theories onto
people visiting, but also to push products, including DVD's, CD Roms,
magazines, and exact replicas of newspapers that came out on that day. I
had expected this, but was a bit surprised that they would still be out
there literally into the evening hours - for it was getting late, and
daylight was slowly but surely running out.
If
there is one thing that Dealey Plaza has represented since that day in
1963, it is that this is the mother of all conspiracy theories. No
matter what you believe about the Kennedy Assassination, and who was
responsible, there are some things that remain grounded in undeniable
fact. The young and popular President Kennedy was shot and killed here
on that day, and a majority of Americans did not believe the Warren
Commision Report.
Yes,
despite the Warren Commission being the official government
investigation into this case, never has it been the case that a majority
of Americans have actually believed the official version.
And,
let's face it: this is not without some good reason. there just seems
to be so many doubts, so many weird situations that occurred on that
day, and strange coincidences since. Things like the Secret Service
being called off from being so close to Kennedy's actual vehicle, which
may have saved him that day had they been tighter around him. Or, the
fact that he does indeed appear to have been struck in such a way that
he was violently thrust back and to the left, even though experts who
support the Warren Commision Report counter that this is just a trick of
the camera, and that this really was not the case. Things like the
"three " who were there and arrested, then let go, and who happen to
resemble some prominent government individuals capable of pulling off
such a coup d'etat, which is what this amounted to according to many
conspiracies. Or that quite a decent percentage of people there on that
day heard the shots ring out from the area of the grassy knoll.
So
many question marks about that day that have never been resolved. At
least not fully to the satisfaction of a majority of people. This thing
has never been fully settled.
Whatever
the truth, the coincidences have been strong enough that they have
allowed the doubts - reasonable doubts, I think, to persist.
Yet,
the major problem is that there have been some truly crazy conspiracy
theories out there. There are some really, really wild theories
involving numerous responsible parties, from the mob to the CIA, the
FBI, the Soviets and the Cubans and future presidents, to various sites
where the fatal shots supposedly came from, which includes at least one
theory that the shots came from the sewer! It is hard to take all of
these theories seriously and, frankly, if one were a conspiracy theorist
about all of these conspiracy theories, it might be enough to make you
believe that some of these theories were planted there to discredit all
others, to essentially discredit the very idea of their having been a
conspiracy theory.
But
again, there just seems to be a few lingering, nagging inadequacies
with the official version, and that is enough to keep this whole thing
going.
Now,
I cannot come to any conclusions with the whole assassination simply by
having visited some of the sites associated with that day. However, I
did get the sense that Dallas finally seems to be coming around to the
role that the city played regarding this event, even if it rather
dragged it's feet in so doing. This is the one event that many people -
both those who subscribe to conspiracy theories and those who do not
alike - seem to believe was somehow symbolic of a definite yet defining
loss for the entire country, and perhaps, on some level, the wider world
in general. Kennedy seemed to represent a certain hope, and untapped
potential, that was lost forever with an assassination that, perhaps
fittingly, has remained shrouded in mystery ever since.
So
I cannot claim to have come up with any answers as to who was
responsible, although I did bring a copy of Case Closed with me, and
started reading it in Dealey Plaza itself, allowing a certain symbolic
significance. This is supposed to be the defining work on this event,
and so I will give it a shot, and will hope to finish it by November
22nd of this year.
In
the meantime, I am posting pictures from my visit to Dallas, which
included four sites that had some significance with the events of that
fateful weekend in the Dallas-Fort Worth area more than half a century
ago.
Parkland Hospital Display:
Memorial to JFK at Fort Worth, TX
Dealey Plaza:
Thursday, August 25 - Woke
up in Las Vegas, and was ready to go. Not that I was eager to leave the
west, or had not enjoyed the trip. But Las Vegas is obviously the
capital of decadence, and right by the hotel, there were everywhere
signs of this decadence. There were hookers on street corners, and their
shady pimps driving around in fancy cars, yelling at them and bossing
them around, ordering them to move to this or that street corner. There
were young people who were obviously destitute, asking anyone that they
encountered for money. And all of this was taking place underneath the
glittering skyline of the casinos. It was a bit depressing, and
admittedly, felt like a bit of a letdown from the highs that we had
experienced on the trip. We showered and rushed to the airport to return
the car rental, and then went to the terminal, running maybe fifteen
minutes late, at least in terms of being at the airport two hours before
our flight was scheduled to take off. As it turned out, we need not
have worried, as the takeoff had been pushed back by an hour. So, we ate
a little something (not much) just prior to going through security.
Then, we got on line, and when we approached, I noticed that I was
missing something important: my license! Remembering that the Virgin
Atlantic representative who had helped us had requested to see it, I ran
over there, and indeed, he still had it. That was a load off. It was
not too annoying, or anything, since he had helped us, specifically by
waving the baggage fee for the next day, since the flight had been
altered against my wishes (originally, we were only supposed to be in
Dallas for about four hours or so, but ended up getting almost 24 hours
when the airline changed our itinerary). When we went back to the
security line, it was much longer, and so we lost some time. Still, not
really that big of a deal, since we now had plenty of time due to the
delay. We sat and waited, and I was getting anxious to leave Vegas, and
get to Dallas, Texas, which felt like it was going to be a new
adventure. Having never been to Texas, this was going to be something
new, and I was determined to make it an extension of the trip, rather
than simply viewing it as an inconvenience. In that spirit, once we
landed at Dallas's Love Field (and I have never before been a part of a
landing or unboarding that was so smooth), we went through the
relatively small airport that did, nonetheless, hold some historical
significance. It was to Love Field that President Kennedy landed after a
very short flight from Fort Worth, and back to Love Field that his body
was taken after the assassination. Also, this airport was the site of
Lyndon B. Johnson taking the oath of office to succeed Kennedy as
president. Probably, this mattered little to others (it hardly seemed to
matter to my son, either), although I found it intriguing, and a small
privilege to deal with this airport, rather than the more modern and
monstrous Dallas-Fort Worth, which I had heard is a pain in the butt,
and very big. After picking up the car rental, we headed straight for
Dealey Plaza, which is, of course, the site where Kennedy was
assassinated in 1963. It was much smaller than I had expected. When you
see it in pictures and on television all of your life, it just seems to
be somewhat larger than it feels in person. There were conspiracy
theorists there, explaining their viewpoint that it could not possibly
have been one lone gunman who killed Kennedy and, of course, they had
further proof than merely their explanations, but it all came at a cost.
You had to buy the products that they were selling in order to see
their proof. We walked around Dealey Plaza and learned that this was
also the site where the city of Dallas itself originated, and so we
learned something on this day! Then, we went to Parkland Hospital, where
Kennedy was taken immediately after being shot, and where he was
officially pronounced dead. There was a display there with the portraits
of both President Kennedy and President Johnson, who of course came
from Texas. After that, it was getting dark, and we were tired, so we
decided to head towards the hotel. I spotted a decent place, and we ate
there, at Long John Silver, which coupled with an A and W, where we had
some root beer floats. It was an enjoyable and filling meal, and my son
really enjoyed it! Then, we checked into the hotel, and were pleasantly
surprised to learn that the pool was still open, and would remain so
until 10pm. My son really wanted to go, and so despite how fatigued I
felt, we both went, and swam for the better part of an hour, until we
unknowingly went past the 10pm closing time. We both slept well that
night, to end our last full day while still on the trip.
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